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INSTRUCTIONS FOR CRANKSHAFT ASSEMBLY
by Vic Locke (published in the Isetta Gazette January 1980)
I presume that you are going to fit two new main bearings, size 6207. The old ones may feel alright, but one is never sure how long they have been in the engine, and it is best to replace them. Once you have fitted the timing side main bearing into the cast iron cage, you are ready to fit the main bearings onto the crankshaft.
First of all, fit your oil slinger disc to the timing side bob weight. The slinger is then secured in place with one countersunk screw which, after being well tightened, needs a chisel punch indentation across the slot to prevent risk of it loosening and coming out. Next, fit the flywheel side main bearing. Put the large wavy washer on the crankshaft, then heat up the main bearing. (I use a Valor 207 stove, but the gas oven is just as good, but try to keep it clean. No specialised equipment is necessary.) When it is good and hot, slip it onto the crankshaft, and drive it gently with a hammer and short length of tube, for example gas pipe, and only drive it on the inner race of the bearing, that is the section against the shaft. Drive it completely home against the wavy washer. The second wavy washer will be fitted in front of the bearing, but you only fit this when fitting the flywheel.
On the timing side of the crankshaft, after you have fitted the oil slinger, the next item is the spacer ring, with the flat side against the slinger, and the chamfered side up. Then you're ready to fit the timing side main bearing. Again, heat up the bearing and drive it into place, well up against the spacer. Then check that the small timing pinion key is in place, and fit the small timing pinion. Stand the crankshaft assembly with the timing side shaft upright, heat your pinion well up, slip it onto the shaft, making sure that the key lines up with the keyway, and tap gently a few times to ease it on its way, square, and with the key in line. Then drive it completely home against the bearing. If you wish, you can get this done at the local engineering firm using a press.
CRANKSHAFT UNIT INTO CRANKCASE
Be sure that your crankcase is clean and clear of all metal swarf and dirt which often lurks in the corners. Check that the new flywheel seal is in place, and the coarse filter plate is also in position, but not the camshaft unit, which we will deal with later. You can only get the crankshaft back in place with the camshaft pinion removed, but there is no need to remove the camshaft pinion in order to remove the camshaft unit. The camshaft unit is removed as a complete assembly by removing the two cheesehead screws accessible through the two holes in the camshaft pinion. With the crankcase unit well heated up, the camshaft unit can be levered out complete, bringing the ball races with it. Two levers under the pinion should do the trick. The camshaft bearings seem to wear very little, and the whole camshaft unit can be replaced after the crankshaft is in place, not forgetting the two cheesehead screws to secure. The size of the camshaft bearing is 6203.
To fit the crankshaft unit in the crankcase is a knack. You will notice on the timing side a half moon in the casting of the crankcase. After it is in, pull the con rod upwards, and all should fall into place inside. Then line up the ball race to the crankcase housing in the flywheel side and drive into place with a mallet or wooden block. All this must be done with the crankcase heated well up. Continue tapping until the timing side cage comes up flush with the crankcase on the timing side, and position the bearing cage to suit the bolt holes in the crankcase. When all is in place, and the bolts on the timing side replaced, test the freedom of rotation of the crankshaft. If stiff, reheat the crankcase and give a few extra blows to the end of the crankshaft timing side. This usually puts everything in place.
CRANKCASE ASSEMBLY
As you proceed, have a good look at the square pipe which has a small short oil pipe attached to it. Be sure that the pipe is clear and not burred over at the tip, so cutting off the oil supply to the timing chain. This burring comes about when the timing chain runs slack, whipping up and down, and striking the pipe. A slack timing chain comes about for numerous reasons, worn chain, worn tensioner, worn teeth on pinions, etc. When your crankcase is completely assembled, oil everything that you can get at with a pressure oil can, before fitting the timing cover and cylinder. I always fit a new spring clip assembly when replacing a timing chain, making sure the blunt end of the clip is facing the direction of travel. Worn tensioners should be replaced without fail. Good luck.