ADJUSTING ISETTA BRAKES
by Vic Locke (published in the Isetta Gazette June 1980)
Most parts of the Isetta are relatively easy, to work on, and are in many ways 'similar to the corresponding parts on a normal car. However, this sometimes seems to cause confusion and owners who have been used to working on 'common' cars. The point I am thinking of at the moment concerns the adjustment of the brakes. Not really a difficult job to undertake, but it is surprising how many' people do it wrong, and very often they are people who should know better. (I am thinking of one person in particular, not a Club member, who used to be something of a dealer. in the more common makes of three-
To begin, all the Isetta's manufactured in Britain were equipped with brake parts of Girling make. This means that such parts as linings may still be obtainable through many specialist brake suppliers, although Mike Kensdale's experience when ordering parts for the Club seems to contradict this. Certain Isetta's had A.T.E. brakes, and those can be rather harder to find, at least in Britain. Nevertheless, as far as I am aware, the method of adjustment is similar for both types. The first step is to place chocks (no, I don't mean After Eight Mints) in front of and behind whichever wheels are not being jacked up. Then, of course, release the handbrake. Next, jack up the front wheels and place a stout block of some sort, or axle stands if you have them, Under the chassis to prevent the car crashing down with you underneath it This sounds obvious, but I have seen Isetta's that have been damaged by blocking under the bodywork rather then the chassis, and others where the car has come off a jack and come down on the brake shoes and backplates, which resulted in distortion and poor brake operation, though thankfully no one was under the car then it came down. When you are satisfied that the car is in a safe position, maneuver yourself under the front end. There you will see two square adjusters on the back plate of each front wheel, one at the three o'clock position, and one at the nine o'clock, on each side. Working on one wheel at a time, turn one of the adjusters clockwise, using a suitable tool. Pliers do not constitute a suitable tool, and any member who is seen using pliers for this job risks a swift kick to the shins if I find out, not to mention the danger of damaging the adjuster. If the adjuster is very stiff, it probably means you will have to remove the wheel and brake drum, and lubricate the adjuster from the inside. Any way, continue to turn the adjuster in a clockwise direction, rotating the wheel at the same time, until the brake begins to hold the wheel. Then turn the adjuster back the other way until the wheel just turns freely. Then repeat the process with the other adjuster on that wheel. When you have this, the brakes on that wheel are adjusted, and you can turn over and do the other wheel in the same way. To adjust the rear brake, you have to remove the blocks and jack from the front of the car and place them under the rear. Once again, choose a solid part which will take the weight of the car, remembering that you will be underneath it. There is only one adjuster for each rear wheel, so the job is even easier. However, remember that the wheel(s) will not turn so easily as the front ones do, due to the drag caused by the transmission.
That, friends, is the way to adjust your brakes. Do not be tempted to adjust the rod which runs from the pedal to the master cylinder. People sometimes see this as an easy way to improve braking without having to fiddle with the individual wheel adjusters, but it isn't. This rod rarely needs any alteration. I have seen Isetta's that have had this rod lengthened by screwing out the adjusters, and the effect of this is to cause the brakes to bind all the time. This causes the fluid to warm up, thus expanding and aggravating the situation. The pressure builds up, the brake lights come on and will not extinguish as long as the ignition remains switched on, and the linings overheat. In fact, Malcolm Thomas once had to replace a complete set of nearly new linings for this very reason on a car that had been tampered with, and which he was asked to sort out.
Finally, if you notice your fuel consumption rising after doing the brakes it is probably because you didn't slacken them off sufficiently for the wheels to turn freely.