by Vic Locke (published in the Isetta Gazette Feb 1978)

Isetta's, like a lot of the small cars, have a tendency to steam up in the winter. It is very important to know what is going on behind you. I recommend a rear view demister which operates off of the battery, and a good mirror, fitted to the nearside, which never mists up. Providing you have a good battery the Isetta normally starts in any weather and soon warms up. Don't overchoke the engine - they don't like it, and DON'T hold the accelerator pedal down when starting. The engine should start on tickover setting, and, once running, the revs can be increased.

Use any 20/50 multigrade oil. Always be sure that there is enough oil in the sump as the capacity (3 pints) is small. Don't 'blip' the engine. Having a heavy flywheel they don't respond well. Use only Champion L5 or L81 sparking plugs when making a replacement. No other will do. Tyre pressures are Front: 16 psi Rear: 24 psi.

If the engine ever stops suddenly, think first; has the spark plug cap come off? You can check this in two ways, by removing the side engine panel cover, or by removing the inspection hatch situated behind the right hand side of the seat.

Petrol capacity is 2.8 gallons, about half a gallon being in reserve. With a full tank you leave the petrol tap facing the offside and continue until the engine shows signs of running out; at this moment push the petrol lever over to the nearside and you are now on reserve. This will take you about 25 miles over a straight run, less in town. Once you are on reserve your tank will take two gallons and then you are full up again. Then put your petrol tap back facing the offside and so on to normal. Usually, as the engine is only a single cylinder and needs a certain amount of revs to run smoothly, once you are forced to drive at 30mph or less you should come down to 3rd gear, and 2nd for slow left or right hand corners. To engage 1st gear you may, which is usual, have to try several times until you feel it engage. Don't force it, and use light finger pressure on gear change lever for other gears. The best cruising speed is about 40mph - and never try to exceed 50mph, which is the safe maximum.

I buy my oil in 5 litre cans and carry a small pint can on the machine, for topping up. The engine oil should be changed every 800 - 1,000 miles. This saves wear on the engine and during the winter with short local runs the oil becomes contaminated sooner by condensation and cold engine.

The Isetta is 12 volt and is entirely fitted out with Lucas wiring and lights. These are obtainable from most garages. The starter and generator are Bosch and all that that unit needs from time to time (like all cars) is a new set of brushes and contact points. Up to the present, brushes and contact points are still available. Bulbs last some considerable time. Mini sized tyres can be used all round. Batteries are easily obtained, and have bolt on lugs (12 volt 34 Amp).

There are only 5 greasing points in the machine;

1. King pins 2. Steering shaft 3. Rear brake cable 4. Steering column 5. Accelerator pedal.

The other points to watch are;

1. Gearbox oil and 2. Chaincase oil level. You remove the filling plug from each unit, and the oil must be up to the level of the threads of the filling plug. Check this with a matchstick. The levels do not drop very much, and I top up with a pressure oil can. Ordinary 20/50 or SAE 40 oil is used in the gearbox and chaincase. Brake Fluid master cylinder is under the seat, nearside, use only Girling brake fluid. All brake units are Girling, and hydraulic, like a car. To drop down to a lower gear than 3rd, you may have to double de-clutch when on the move, and the gear will slip in silently.

I have found the BMW Isetta gearbox very robust and silent if the clutch is properly adjusted. The clutch and accelerator are operated by cable control, like a motorcycle, and it is a good idea, if you come to like the machine and intend to keep it, to get a spare set of cables as a standby for breakages.

The gearbox is operated by steel rods and fork ends, which are everlasting apart from the normal wear and tear to the clevis pins.

One other point, with reference to lubrication, is the filling up of the front suspension oil reservoirs, a simple job and one which can be done with an oil can, with the wheels turned full lock in each direction. Engine oil will do.

Happy Motoring!