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REMOVING THE TIMING COVER & INSPECTION OF THE TIMING CHAIN
by Vic Locke (published in the Isetta Gazette July/August 1981)
The procedure shown here is that for use when the engine in in position in the car, and should be a simple matter for any member to perform.
1. Remove the casing enclosing the Dynastart (5 x 6mm bolts)
2. Remove the domed cap from the blower wheel (2 small countersunk screws)
3. Remove the bolt in the centre of the blower wheel (17mm ring spanner)
4. Insert the special extractor bolt into the thread inside the front centre of the advance/retard unit. Tighten the bolt, and the blower wheel will come off, complete with advance/retard unit. These extractor bolts are available throught the club's spares service.
5. Detach the red starter cable from the starter post of the Dynastart, and also remove the lead to the coil (marked CB). Pull these leads clear.
6. Remove the four cheesehead screws that hold the dynastart unit to the crankcase. Then ease the Dynastart field unit towards you, and pull clear. It is surprisingly heavy, so be careful not to drop it!
7. Insert the special extracting bolt into the centre of the armature, which is threaded, and tighten up hard. Jar the tapered end of the armature gently, revolving it slowly at the same time. Place a piece of soft metal betweent he hammer and the armature when doing this to avoid causing any damage. Keep the pressure on the extracting bolt whilst jarring and pulling, and suddenly the armature will come free. Some armatures come off more easily than others which take more time and patience.
8. With the Dynastart removed, and out of the way, you are ready to remove the timing cover itself.
9. Remove all six nuts (6mm) you see in the area behind where the armature was, and on the right hand side of the timing cover, as you face it, you will see a slotted head countersunk screw. This screw has to be removed, and you will need a heavy screwdriver for the job. There are also three 6mm bolts to remove from the upper right side of the timing cover.
10. Inside the timing cover casing, in the centre, is a ballrace (Number 6205) which fits to the crankshaft and also into the nose section of the timing case cover where the crankshaft comes through. You will need to heat up this area of the timing cover in order to expand the metal and free the bearing before attempting to remove the cover. When it is really hot, tap gently on the lugs behind the timing cover on each side, and the cover will gradually come forward and pull clear.
11. The interior of the timing section is now exposed for your close inspection.
12. The crankcase breather valve is fitted to the inside of the timing cover. It is of the diaphragm type, and if it is stuck open, or looks defective in any way, you should replace it. They are designed to be disposable, and are not repairable. When you have removed the old one, the new valve simply presses into place, and is then secured around the edge with 4 centre punch marks. Heat up the area when fitting the new valve, and drive it gently into position using a block of wood placed squarely on the valve to ensure it seats properly.
13. Check the timing chain for wear. The length of the timing chain is 46 pitches, and it is connected with a spring link. If the chain has seen long service, or if it seems worn, replace it with a new one, using a new spring link. If the teeth on the timing chain pinion are badly hooked, replace that too.
14. The timing chain tensioner must be in good condition if it is to be used again. If the plastic heel on the tensioner has worn down, fit a new one. A worn tensioner will cause the chain to run slack, causing premature wear and possible breakage.
15. Directly behind the small timing pinion fitted to the crankcase is a square steel plate with a small oil feed pipe attached to it, the purpose of which is to lubricate the timing chain. It is most important to ensure that this pipe has not burred over or blocked, thus stopping the flow of oil to the timing chain. If it is burred over, clean up the end with a file. The plate can be removed to make this task easier. The burring is caused by a slack timing chain striking the end of the pipe in the past. Wear in the chain damages the pipe, and thus causes more wear!
16. Check the camshaft bearings. They do not usually give trouble and are long wearing.
17. Check the oil seal fitted into the centre of the timing cover which fits over the crankshaft end. If in any doubt about its condition, replace it.
18. Remember, when fitting the new chain, the blunt end of the spring link must face in the direction of the travel of the chain.
19. When you are satisfied that everything is in order, re-